Logbook at Saco do Mamanguá
DAY 1 – 22/01/2020
How small are we before the world?
That’s how I felt from the moment I arrived there, one of the few tropical fjords in the world.
I took a bus from Ubatuba to Paraty and another from Paraty to Paraty Mirim and finally a small boat picked us up at the pier.
I was invited by She Traveller, which talks about women travelers, to stay at the Mamanguá Hostel(@mamanguahostel).
As we got closer to the beach, I felt the dimension and energy of it all embracing me.
Saco do Mamanguá was once occupied by the Tupinambás Indians and later there were farms where slaves came to serve as “fattening bags” before being sold.
A region with a lot of history and a lot to learn.
We arrived and were greeted by amazing women, Clara, who works at the hostel, was our partner for the rest of the day.
She took us on all the tours and explained every corner of the place.
The day was clear and so we set off for Pico do Pão de Açúcar, at around 3pm (take the opportunity to go up in clearer weather).
The means of transportation there is by canoe, so we made the crossing, arrived at the beach where the cruzeiro community lives and started walking up to the peak.
1.5km will never be the same after this trail.
Although beautiful and very strong, it is a 100% steep trail, but the view makes up for it. We paddled back and it was already late at night, so we took advantage of the hammocks and food at the Mamanguá Hostel, painted, walked on stilts and exchanged experiences.
DAY 2 – 23/01/2020
We woke up to a delicious breakfast and the rainy day was perfect for a paddle through the mangroves.
After about 10km of paddling, we stopped at the Rio Grande waterfall, a beautiful pool embraced by the Atlantic forest. By the way, this is another of the stunning things about this place: the ecosystems, three in one (Pantanal, restinga and Atlantic forest).
We continued rowing along the coast of Saco do Mamanguá until we arrived at Dona Gracinha’s restaurant (you need to book in advance, you can contact @mamanguahostel for this), where she served delicious homemade food with a vegetarian option.
We paddled back to the hostel, another 10km of water and mixed ecosystems.
To round off our last night, we were invited to try the cuisine at Refúgio Mamanguá, an inn near the hostel.
We took the trail and arrived at an Oasis by the Sea.
The dishes were made by @elasaleleacucar, it was a gastronomic orgasm!
DAY 3 – Last, but not.
23/01/2020
We woke up feeling sunny and eager to go back.
We enjoyed the day at the hostel after a coffee and took the boat to Paraty Mirim.