Hello, travelers!
In this post we’re going to go through our complete 8-day itinerary in Chapada dos Veadeiros, so it’s going to be a bit long.
But we have an important warning before you start following our adventure:
We made our trip in November 2020, a time when MANY things were still closed due to the Covid-19 pandemic.
Many popular waterfalls, such as Santa Bárbara and Almécegas, were not open to visitors, so we opted for others, even though this was our first trip to Chapada dos Veadeiros.
They were all incredible and we wouldn’t change a thing.
We heard a lot of people talking about the unusual and mystical energy of the place and we even thought it might be a bit of an exaggeration, as many places that become extremely popular are already biased.
But Chapada deserves every detail of its fame!
The intense and contemplative energy is really present at all times.
Everywhere you go, the ground is full of quartz.
Nature, wild and complex.
All these elements are sources of natural energy.
At the same time as you feel like a miniature in front of that immensity, you feel part of the whole, one more particle of Gaia. 
Now on to the waterfalls, the main attractions of the Chapada.
To give you an idea, the region as a whole has more than 2,000 catalogued waterfalls.
That’s right, you didn’t read that wrong.
So any traveler’s first visit to the Chapada is always a huge challenge in terms of choosing which places to visit.
We found lots of lists on the internet, asked several friends who had already been, but the reality is that the experience is very particular to each person, so after seeing all the options, follow your intuition.
But of course we’re going to tell you about the ones we liked best.
Day 1: Label Waterfall
As it was the weekend, the town was packed and we wanted to go to a lesser-known waterfall that wouldn’t be so crowded.
We were very intrigued because it was a waterfall almost 200 meters long that had only been discovered in 2018!
We were right, it was practically empty and wonderful.
The trail to get to the waterfall was one of the parts we enjoyed the most: it’s beautiful, well signposted, with a few tricky parts, but nothing a good pair of shoes and a little attention can’t solve.
It’s 1.8km long and takes around 40 minutes. 
1. you have to leave your details at the entrance
2. we met several people on the trail
3. the trail has ropes, bridges and all the necessary support An important point is that to get to the entrance of the trail there are 21 km of dirt, a very beautiful route but which requires a tall car, like a jeep.
Day 2: Loquinhas Waterfall
Because of these factors, it is one of the most visited by people of all ages, especially at weekends, when it becomes almost a Disney of the Chapada (crowded)!
We didn’t expect much, but we were surprised!
Firstly, the whole place is beautiful and the whole structure is super integrated with nature, so you don’t get the feeling of a mass tourism place or anything like that.
During the week, as there are so many waterfalls, it’s easy to find privacy to enjoy nature, relax, meditate and be with yourself.
Perfect for a day when you want to re-energize yourself and give your legs a rest. 
There are two trails, the violet trail is the one we liked best, the whole path is less frequented by tourists.
Besides the fact that the whole trail is a spectacle, full of little monkeys, it feels like you’re floating in the forest.
Each trail is around 1.5 km long and has eight different wells.
Favorite waterfalls
1. Loquinhas Trail: Poço do Pajé
2. Violet Trail: Esmeraldas Waterfall
Day 3: Macaquinho Waterfall
Most of it on a dirt road ✦ Time: full day ✦ Trail level: medium ✦ Price: R$30 per person ✦ Infrastructure: 3/5 ✦ Safety: 4/5 ✦ Guide: not super necessary if you’re used to hiking
How to get there?
We’ve added this topic here because the end of the road can be a bit confusing.
Leaving Alto Paraíso, you should take the road towards Brasília (the same road that goes to Catarata dos Couros).
After the stretch of tarmac, you’ll see an entrance signposting the Cachoeira dos Macaquinhos and from there continue on a dirt road for about 1 hour.
This first part of the road is quiet, without many potholes.
When you’re approaching the campsite where the entrance to Macaquinhos is located, things can get a little more complicated.
About 900m before the entrance, you’ll see a sign indicating that you’re close and if you don’t have a 4×4 you should park there.
Many cars even go down, but end up getting bogged down on the way up.
We felt like we were in Jurassic Park, among huge canyons, imposing waterfalls and the amazing vegetation of the cerrado.
There are another 10 waterfalls and pools to enjoy on the circuit.
The trail is medium-level, with lots of rocks and a few climbs and descents, but nothing too complex.
Take plenty of water and snacks so you can spend the day at ease and explore everything the place has to offer.
The last waterfalls, Cachoeira da Caverna and Cachoeira do Encontro, have very strong falls, as does the energy of the place.
At Cachoeira do Encontro, we don’t recommend getting too close to the falls without a guide – it can be very dangerous!
It was also the waterfall where we found the most places to safely jump off the rocks!
Cachoeira da Luz and Poço do Jump are some of the best options.
Day 4: Raizama
Every trip has that one day when things don’t go exactly to plan.
This day was like that, but it couldn’t have been better!
We hadn’t heard of this waterfall anywhere and it was VERY SURPRISING. 
It was just us there that day.
The darker water due to the gray rocks made us feel like we were on another planet!
The only thing missing were our ET friends. We spent hours enjoying our private paradise until we reached the last surprise of the day: a little waterfall that looked like something out of a fairy tale.
You know the ones that luxury hotels want to copy? 
The trail is quiet, flat most of the time, with less dense vegetation and a wonderful view of the sunset.
Day 5: Balloon ride and Crystal Waterfall
The dream of hot air ballooning is real, possible, wonderful and it’s not in Cappadocia, but in Chapada dos Veadeiros!
You didn’t expect that, did you?
Neither did we, but it was a fantastic experience! 
As soon as we saw the balloon, all sleep passed.
The tour begins with the preparation of the balloon, when Filipe, pilot and founder of the company Balonismo na Chapada, explains the technical and historical aspects of the flight.
It takes more than 6m of canvas and propane gas cylinders to keep us in the air for about 1h30.
- Company: Ballooning in Chapada
- Time: start at 4:30 a.m.
- Duration: 1h30
- Values * (2020 values)
- Balloon 8 passengers: R$690 per person/ R$350 children up to 11 years old
- Balloon 3 passengers: R$790 per person
- Balloon 2 people: R$ 1190 per person
The flight is calm and even for those of us who have a certain fear of heights, it’s very peaceful, as the balloon is very stable.
No turbulence there. 
We climbed into the balloon eager to watch the sunrise from above, seeing the cerrado dawn like a painting.
We even spotted a rare black jaguar.
Filipe said it was the first time in seven years of flying in the region that he had seen one.
We flew over Morro da Baleia (Whale Hill) and saw the extension of the Maytrea Garden, with the company of macaws flying alongside the balloon.
Would we recommend it?
Yes, absolutely!
It was worth every penny saved to invest in this experience, which will go straight into the “most special memories of life” box.
After the tour, we went for coffee at the only bakery open at that time and opted to go to Cachoeira dos Cristais, as it was very close to Alto Paraíso.
We were very exhausted from the lack of sleep at night and didn’t want to do any long hikes.
Cachoeira dos Cristais is similar to Loquinhas, but with a steeper trail.
Right at the entrance, there is a snack bar and a large area with tables, chairs and hammocks.
When we were at the beginning of the descent to the last waterfall, it started to rain.
We stayed there for a while, but preferred to go up and sleep in the hammocks.
I confess that we didn’t really enjoy the day there and we don’t have an exciting report on the Cachoeira dos Cristais.
Some people went and said they loved the energy.
I think our tiredness didn’t allow us to feel any of that on the day.
Day 6: Moon Valley and Sunset Window Viewpoint
Moon Valley
Location: 15 minutes from São Jorge ✦ Time: 2 to 3 hours ✦ Trail level: easy ✦ Price: R$20 per person ✦ Infrastructure: 3/5 ✦ Safety: 3/5 ✦ Guide: recommended to understand more about the geological formation and enjoy it without worrying.
But it’s super easy to do without one too.
For us, the Valley of the Moon is a must go! Before 9 a.m. we were entering the Valley and we can say that it is truly amazing.
The geological formation of the region dates back 1.8 BILLION years and is home to the oldest metasedimentary rocks in Brazil.
Because it was flood season and it had rained the night before, only a few wells were available for swimming.
That’s how lucky we were to have a guide!Lu took us to Poço 1, which is further up, where there were no tourists at all.
The lifeguards only let us go there because we had a guide.
We were able to swim between the cracks in the rocks and feel a little bit of what the moon (or some other planet) must be like.
FRIENDLY TIPS
- be very careful where you step on the stones!
Never step on the darkest spots, because that’s where something drips repeatedly, making them - super slippery.
- In rainy seasons, it is best to hire a guide, as the waterfalls are very dangerous
- Take cash, they don’t accept cards at the entrance Arrive early: fewer tourists and less chance of rain in the flood season (Nov to April) Explore the rocks and caves, take the opportunity to relax and sunbathe.
Sunset Window Viewpoint
Both Vale da Lua and the Mirante da Janela trail are close to São Jorge.
But it turned out that I had forgotten my sneakers at the Airbnb in Alto Paraíso and we had to go there to pick them up before the hike.
So, on the way from Vale da Lua to Alto Paraíso we stopped at Jardim de Maytrea, one of the most famous places in Chapada to watch the sunset.
It was still around lunchtime, so no sunset for us, but it was super interesting to learn a bit more about the garden. 
In general, it is recommended.
This is also the trail that passes by the Abismo Waterfall, but that day the waterfall was very dry and we didn’t even go in.
The interesting thing about doing the trail at this time of day is that we took a “counter-flow” and had the park to ourselves once again.
The trail goes up and down a lot, but there is a good support structure, with bridges and some handrails.
It’s all in the Chapada style, so don’t expect a footbridge.
Towards the end of the trail (the outward route), we got a bit of rain and when we reached the point of the famous photo from the window, the rock was too slippery to climb.
Trying to protect ourselves a bit from the rain, we ended up finding a much cooler spot!
CHECK OUT THIS TIP:
below the little staircase that goes up to the viewpoint, there is a kind of cave with a wooden structure.
VERY CAREFULLY cross the structure and you’ll find the most beautiful view of the tour!
If you’re afraid of heights, run away.
We’re talking about the edge of an abyss.
We stayed there enjoying the view of the Saltos Waterfall, which is inside the National Park.
Certainly one of the most wonderful and unmissable places in the Chapada.
We weren’t so lucky with a breathtaking sunset, after all the day was a bit cloudy and rainy, but the sky was still a painting of soft tones.
We walked part of the way back in the dark.
The sound of wildlife waking up for the night shift was a very different experience, with a few scares towards the end, but nothing to put you off your sleep.
FRIENDLY TIPS
- take plenty of water! the trail gets tiring because it is uphill
- don’t forget your flashlight
- explore the tour beyond just the view from the window
Day 7 : Chapada dos Veadeiros National Park
If we could define the National Park in one sentence it would be: the Brazilian Jurassic Park.
The National Park was the tour as a whole that we loved the most in Chapada.
Here are the reasons why:
- The park’s landscape is unlike anything we’ve ever seen in our lives
- The state of nature conservation is surreal
- The energy of the place is very strong, a peace that transcends ⠀
There are three trails within the park, the first of which is the Seven Falls Crossing, which takes approximately three days and involves two nights spent camping in the park.
You don’t even have to ask!
The other two trails are the Saltos, Carrossel and Corredeiras trail (yellow) and the Cânions and Cachoeira das Cariocas trail (red), we chose the first one.
Important information: the park ticket office closes at 12 noon, no visitors can enter after that time. 
We decided to take the yellow trail, as it passed by the Saltos waterfall.
The walk is a total of 11km round trip.
Jumping Trail, Carousel and Rapids:
Location: National Park, near São Jorge ✦ Time: 5h to 6h ✦ Trail level: medium to difficult (some very steep parts) ✦ Infrastructure: 5/5 ✦ Safety: 5/5 ✦ Guide: not necessary.
The guides had told us to follow the trail according to the arrows, but we decided to reverse the order of the waterfalls to refresh ourselves and catch the flow of people.
⠀
This tip is worth gold: at the first fork, we went right instead of left and arrived at the Corredeiras do Rio Preto, which is paradise for those who want to sunbathe, take a few hours to read a book, have a massage in the rapids and enjoy the energy of the water.
As we started the trail around 12 noon, it was the perfect time to relieve the heat.
We continued walking and arrived at the breathtaking viewpoint of Salto dos Rio Preto, so beautiful that you could spend hours gazing at it.
The canyons trace a seemingly endless path and the 120m-high Saltos Waterfall is impressive!
Due to the force of the water, swimming is not allowed.
We continue for a few more meters, through the rocks on the hillside and arrive at the 80m-high Cachoeira dos Saltos.
Here you can bathe in the Rio Preto and cleanse your soul after a full day’s hiking.
It’s just not possible to get too close to the waterfall, the National Park restricts the safety limit with a rope. 
Day 8: Catarata dos Couros
Before we start, it’s worth pointing out two things:
1. The presence of a guide is necessary, but should be mandatory
Because we have experience of hiking, we opted to go without a guide and we had a hard time finding the right path because there are no signs or markings.
Another important thing: pay extra attention to the waterfalls, any slip can be dangerous.
2. THE LOCATION ON GOOGLE MAPS IS INCORRECT
It was super difficult for us to find the Catarata dos Couros, Google Maps sends you to a completely different location, even the owner of the place we went to said that this happens all the time and, even with explanations from several people, it took us at least an hour to find the entrance to the waterfall. 
Being less touristy and with less human interference, it was one of our favorites and we recommend Catarata dos Couros to everyone!
The grandeur of the waterfalls and the volume of water is something we haven’t seen anywhere else.
Right at the parking lot, you have the option of booking lunch after the tour at a local restaurant owned by the wife of the guy who looks after the cars.
It cost around R$15 and was a simple home-cooked meal, but super tasty.
Well worth it!
Now let’s go on to the Catarata dos Couros trail: ✦ Location: the entrance is near Alto Paraíso ✦ Time: 5 to 6 hours ✦ Trail level: medium to difficult ✦ Infrastructure: 2/5 ✦ Safety: 2/5 ✦ Guide: necessary Because we got lost a lot, we ended up arriving around 12 noon and started the trail towards the end, where there is a wonderful viewpoint, where you can see all the falls and the Rio do Couros.
But we stopped along the way and enjoyed each of the waterfalls.
Right at the start, you’ll find the Muralha waterfall, the most “famous” in the complex, but not the most beautiful, in our opinion.
It’s an extensive waterfall that seems to split in two.
As it had rained the night before, the volume of water was very high, which also made it more dangerous.
We enjoyed the view, but left it until the end and headed towards the third waterfall: Cachoeira do Parafuso. 
It’s a succession of falls, with an impressive volume of water, a cinematic place.
We spent hours basking in the sun on the rocks.
We saw some people with a guide going down a natural “toboggan”, where you just have to throw yourself in the right place for the flow of water to take you.
As we didn’t have a guide, we stayed on our own to stay safe.
The next waterfall is Cachoeira do Bujão, which is just below Parafuso.
As the trail there was more complex and we hadn’t reached the lookout yet, we decided not to go there.
We continued on to Mirante and this part of the trail became more difficult.
With no signposts, we almost got lost several times.
In addition, some parts are very steep and you have to lean completely on the safety ropes.
It’s not for the faint-hearted. 
The camera on your cell phone can’t capture the entire drop of more than 100m, such is its magnitude.
The opposite view is the continuation of the Rio dos Couros, among its endless canyons.
We walked back with the tranquillity of someone who has had the opportunity to appreciate all this perfect Mother Nature has to offer and stopped for a swim at the Muralho Waterfall.
We went in for a while and noticed what the guide from the other day had warned us about, the signs of a possible water trombra.
The phenomenon refers to the sudden increase in the volume of water in the river, when it rains in the headwaters, forming a destructive torrent, without leaving enough time for bathers to get out of the water. Of course, when we noticed this, we quickly left and finished the tour.
Chapada dos Veadeiros National Park Well, that’s it for our summary of the 8 days in Chapada dos Veadeiros.
On the last day, we were going to go to Cachoeira do Segredo, but as we had some unforeseen circumstances, it didn’t work out.
Even with the waterfalls closed and a bit of rain, we left with the feeling that we had seen everything we should have seen.
It just made me want to go back and explore this impressive place that is the Chapada.
If you have any questions or comments, write them below 🙂 We’d love to answer bjs
